Modelling and Collecting Terms: Code 3

Hi,

         Reading through several old posts (I think that is the correct term), I noticed there seemed to be some confusion about Code 3 models, conversions, restorations, repaints, etc, and what each term means. 

I hope the following notes may be of some interest. As I am a modeller and diecast collector it is these fields I know best, my knowledge of plastic toys and tinplate is very limited. I do not even know if the term Code 3 can be applied to plastic toys, or if it is restricted entirely to diecasts.

Each area of modelling or collecting seems to have its own, specialised terms, that do not always apply in other areas.

Thinking further about the term Code 3 (along with Code 1 and Code 2 - terms which exist, but are less common), I think I have only seen it used in regard to diecasts, rather than to plastic models and toys, or to kits. It may involve physical changes to the model, or be restricted to changing the colour scheme or markings. 

This may be done by an individual working on a single model for their own collection, there might be a small batch for personal use or for sale, or a company might buy up several hundred models and apply decals or stickers to promote a product or event. 

To a diecast collector all would be considered Code 3. In this case an existing finished model is being changed in some way. Even a fairly simple repaint may involve disassembly of the model in order to remove the original paint from the metal parts with paint stripper - which can not be used on plastic or rubber because they will melt (but there are a few paint stripers available designed for use on plastics).

A restoration, in which an old and battered model is returned to its original condition would not be classed as a Code 3. This might only be a repaint (not always in the original colour scheme). Sometimes repairs are needed. 

Missing parts may need to be replaced, either made or adapted from something else, cannibalised from another model in even worse shape, or sometimes newly made replacement parts are available from small specialist firms. Conversions or 'chops' usually involve cutting parts of the model away, and adding different parts. Adding extra detail without otherwise changing the model is not conversion work, but detailing or super-detailing.

With kits (plastic, metal, or resin), things are slightly different. The model is supplied in pieces, and needs to be assembled. Any changes made are not being made to a finished model, as would be the case with most diecasts. If you follow the kit instructions and apply the kit markings the result is a 'straight from the box' model. Finishing the model in a different colour scheme entirely is normal, and again decal sheets are available for this, especially for model aircraft. 

Extra detailing can be added, and detailing parts and sets are available from various small companies, usually in resin or white metal. Repositioning control surfaces on a model aircraft is considered a minor modification. Changing the model to a different variant or fitting a different type of truck body would be considered a conversion.

In figure modelling changing the pose of a figure would also be considered a conversion. Cross-kitting involves using parts from two or more different kits to improve or modify a model. Weathering is common with military vehicles and on railway models, and has become much more common on model aircraft in the last few decades.

Scratch-built models are made from basic materials such as plastic card, balsa, etc, although kit parts such as wheels, and oddments may be used for basic shapes and for detailing. These are certainly not Code 3, as there is no modification of an existing model.

As I am not familiar with the world of plastic toys, I do not know how painting a self-coloured plastic model a different colour is viewed. Surely it would not be a repaint if the original was not painted, except for the smaller details ?

Paul Adams from New Zealand