Saturday 27 July 2024

TANKS A LOT TIMMY TOAD!

Reader Timmy Toad has come to the rescue! Actually, Timmy came to the rescue in 2021, the last time I got my Mobile Bridge tank out but I must have been asleep. Fortunately, three years later and my tank out again, I found Timmy's emails and pictures in my Gmail archive, which I will post here. So a big belated thank you Timmy!

"Woodsy,
the wheel goes on the front as shown in the following pics. As you turn it, the bridge lifts off the tank and onto the floor. I guess you put the tank into reverse to lay the bridge, then remove the rod holding bridge to tank. As you can see my rod is broken. I think its meant to be about twice as long with a stop and ball at one end. I've given the cogs a twirl to turn the motor, and checked continuity with a multimeter. Next job is to put 3V directly to the motor to see if it'll go

Yep that long rod with the ball on the end shown in one of the pics is for attaching the bridge to the tank. I've only got the bottom half of it (so only one side of the bridge is supported by the tank), so need to find something to replace it with (I shall be looking at plastic cocktail swizzle sticks, and other such stirring rods). Alternatively I could cut what I have in half and use a piece at each end (assuming its long enough to go thru both ends with a bit spare to pull back out).
I think once the bridge is in the vertical position you have to manually open it as you continue to turn the wheel to get it horizontal (I'll experiment with that once I get both sides held by the tank).

the wheel goes on the front as shòwn in the following pics. As you turn it, the bridge lifts off the tank and onto the floor. I guess you put the tank into reverse to lay the bridge, then remove the rod holding bridge to tank. As you can see my rod is broken. I think its meant to be about twice as long with a stop and ball at one end. I've given the cogs a twirl to turn the motor, and checked continuity with a multimeter. Next job is to put 3V directly to the motor to see if it'll go.

Regarding yours, you say the motors been taken out. Is that everything including the metal holding structure as well, leaving just the axles?


My fiddling around with the motor in mine has resulted in this short clip...enjoy! Timmy Toad"

9 comments:

  1. Even I recall that! How could you forget ? Now you'll have to get crafting!

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    1. Er, it's three years ago, there was a pandemic and I'm over 60! 😆

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  2. How about a piece of stiff wire to replace the pin. Seems it would be sturdier than plastic.

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    1. Good idea. I'm abandoning the motor and wiring and now concentrating on scratch building the missing plastic parts.

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  3. The video don't seem to work.

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    1. I know. Thanks. The best minds on the base are working on it.

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  4. I suspect, but havn't checked that the C21 toys use a common motor and cog/toothed-wheel set-the toothed wheels even look the same as those in the friction driven JR21 T-bird 2 and 3 ( its been a while since I did some motor/drive finagling, so my memory might be a little faulty)- so if you've got a smashed (sorry, 'battle-damaged') C21 toy lying around, it might be able to provide some of the missing parts.
    Whilst I have no problems getting the motors/friction drives/mechanical stuff back working on these old toys, I'm pretty incompetent at making stuff (I'm at about the same level as a 6 yr old), so I am in awe of your skills in turning a few bits lying around into an Action Man deep sea diving suit.


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    1. All good info Timmy thanks. I see what you mean about C21 toy motors. I will use these shots and your others to tackle it one day when I'm more confident with wires! In the meantime I'm making the missing parts. I know what I'm doing with bits! Thanks as well about the Diver! I'd love to be six again! 1967, what a year!

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